Bandhavgarh Nationl Park

Madhya Pradesh

In most national parks across India, spotting a tiger is considered a matter of luck. But at Bandhavgarh National Park, you’d have to be unlucky to see just one. This exceptional record makes Bandhavgarh the top choice among tiger enthusiasts. I often say there are two types of wildlife travelers: those who come solely for tigers, and those who seek a mix of big cats, general wildlife, and birds. Bandhavgarh National Park effortlessly satisfies both categories of visitors.

What sets Bandhavgarh apart isn’t just the frequency of tiger sightings—it’s also the breathtaking natural and archaeological backdrop. The ancient Bandhav-Dhish temple atop the fort, as viewed from Chakradhara Meadow, or the rear face of the fort seen from Sehra Meadow, adds an enchanting dimension to the park. Visiting the Badi Gufa caves, where yogis once meditated, evokes deep reflection on Bandhavgarh’s rich and storied past. And the view of the Vindhyanchal Hills from Sita Mandap is so mesmerizing, it will stop you in your tracks, leaving you awestruck by the sheer beauty of this remarkable place.

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Bandhavgarh National Park may be smaller in size compared to other reserves, but that’s exactly what contributes to its high tiger density. While other national parks like Ranthambhore, Kanha, Tadoba, and Pench also boast excellent tiger sightings, Bandhavgarh holds a unique appeal—especially for those hoping to spot tigresses with their cubs. The zones of Tala, Magdhi, and Khitauli offer abundant water and prey, creating a thriving habitat where tigers feel secure and are more easily observed. In recent years, a herd of over fifty wild Asian Elephants from neighboring Chhattisgarh has also taken residence here, mostly seen in the Khitauli zone and occasionally moving between other regions of the park.

Set amidst the Vindhya Hills of Madhya Pradesh, Bandhavgarh National Park spans 1,536 sq km and features an impressive diversity of habitats. It is also famed as the land of the White Tiger. Historically, white tigers were regularly found in the former princely state of Rewa. The last recorded one, named Mohun, was captured in 1951 by Maharaja Martand Singh and is now preserved and displayed at the Rewa Palace.

Before its designation as a national park, Bandhavgarh’s forests were maintained as the private hunting grounds of the Maharaja of Rewa. While hunting was permitted for royal guests, outside access was restricted, which helped conserve the forest’s integrity. It was once believed that it brought good fortune for the Maharaja to shoot 108 tigers—Maharaja Venkat Raman Singh exceeded this mark, reportedly having hunted 111 tigers by 1914.

History of Bandhavgarh

Bandhavgarh national park has been a center of human activity and settlement for over 2000 years, and there are references to it in the ancient books, the Narad-Panch Ratra and the Shiva Purana. The oldest sign of habitation in the park are caves dug into the sandstone to the north of the fort. Several contain Brahmi inscriptions dating from the 1st century B.C. Various dynasties have ruled the fort, for example, the Maghas from the 1st century A.D., the Vakatakas from the 3rd century A.D., From that time onwards Bandhavgarh was ruled by a succession of dynasties including the Chandela Kings of Bundelkhand who built the famous temples at Khajuraho. The Baghel Kings, the direct ancestors of the present Royal family of Rewa, established their dynasty at Bandhavgarh in the 12th century. It remained their capital till 1617 when the center of court life moved to Rewa, 75 miles (120Kms) to the north. Without royal patronage Bandhavgarh became more and more deserted until forest overran the area band it became the royal hunting reserve. This helped to preserve the forest and its wildlife, although the Maharajas made full use of their rights.

At independence Bandhavgarh remained the private property of the Maharaja. He finally gave it to the state for the formation of the National Park in 1968. After the park was created poaching was brought under control and the number of animals rose dramatically. Small dams and water holes were built to solve the problem of water shortage. Grazing by local cattle was stopped and the village within the park boundaries was relocated. The Tigers in particular prospered and the 1986 extension provided much needed forest to accommodate them.

Geography, Flora & Fauna

There are 32 hills in this part of the park, and a large natural fort stands tall at its center. The fort’s cliffs are 2625 feet (800 meters) high, 1000 feet (300 meters) above the surrounding countryside. Over half the area is covered by Sal forest although on the upper slope it is replaced by mixed forest of sal, saj, dhobin, and saja. Winter temperatures (Nov-mid-February) vary from almost freezing at night to around 68 degree Fahrenheit in the daytime. Summer nights are also cooler than the daytime temperature, which rises to 104 degree Fahrenheit. This park is closed during the breeding season, which coincides with the monsoon (July-October). Rainfall in the park averages 50 inches (120cm) per year.

Bandhavgarh national park is justifiably famous for its Tigers, but it has a wide range of other animals. The undergrowth is not as dense as in some northern Terai forests, or as in Kanha which happens to be only 5 hour drive away. The best time to see the park inhabitants is still the summer months when water becomes more scarce and the undergrowth dies back. The most effective way to search for Tigers is in the safari vehicles.

Indian Gaur were successfully relocated in Bandhavgarh national park about 10 years back.  They were commonly seen till mid-90s. I saw the last solitary male in 1997 in the Chakradhara meadow, but for some unknown reason they all disappeared. After reintroduction from Kanha and successful breeding in Bandhavgarh national park the Gaur now roam their former territory confidently.

Leopard sightings had dipped over last few years, but lately in last two years, the Leopard sightings have improved considerably. Muntjac and sambhar prefer denser vegetation. The main prey animal, however, for the Tigers and the park’s leopards are the chital (spotted deer, Axis Axis), which now number a few thousand.

There are two types of monkeys common in the park, the rhesus macaque and the black-faced langur. Drives can also reveal jungle cats, hyenas, porcupines, ratels, and a variety of other mammals. Bandhavgarh attracts many migratory birds in the winter months, including the birds of prey like the steppe eagle and a variety of wildfowl.

But the most interesting news from Bandhavgarh national park has been the arrival of wild Asian Elephants from the neighbouring state of Chattisgarh. A herd of about 50 elephants arrive in 2018 and have since made Bandhavgarh national park their home. They had briefly moved out in 2019 but are now back and have more or less settled in the Khitauli zone. Once in a while they also move towards Magdhi zone. Bandhavgarah national park has what they require in a habitat, enough of food, water, and safety.

 

Tourism Zones & Safaris

There are three tourism zones in the park, namely, Tala, Magdhi, and Khitauli, which are open from 1st October till 30th June. There was a time when everybody wanted to do safaris only in Tala zone, to an extent that the forest department had to increase the costs of safaris in this zone. But once Khitauli zone was opened for tourism, it brought in more conservation measures, thus giving tigers more inviolate area. They felt at ease and started to move around much. It is no surprise now that the tiger sightings have picked up in all the three tourism zones.

There are three buffer zones, namely, Dhamokhar, Johilla, and Panpatha, which remain open for tourism round the year. 

The safaris in Bandhavgarh are conducted in a 4-wheel drive vehicle. It is an open vehicle with no roof, and quite comfortable and practical for tiger safaris in Bandhavgarh national park. It is mandatory to take a forest guide with you for safaris. When you book through us we ensure you get an experienced and skilful naturalist who drives you during the safaris. If the early morning Safari in Bandhavgarh National Park is a thriller, then the late afternoon rendezvous to get another glimpse of the Tiger, and watch the shadows grow taller as dusk approaches and the cacophony of birds grows louder in the trees, is not to be missed experience.

Entry in to the park is allowed only at sunrise for 4 hour, and then again around 3pm till sunset. Park opening and closing times depend on sunrise and sunset time, thus it varies every month. The park has several good weather roads. A unique part about this park is the nature of soil is sandy, and it water easily. So even if it rains during the safari, you can continue doing your safari and enjoy the rains simultaneously. This is quite unlike Kanha, where even a one hour rain can stop a safari due to clayey soil, which tends to get slippery, and slush gets created soon.

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